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Mexico Travel :: The North Mexican States

State of Durango

Before the Conquest, the Tepehuans, the Acaxees and the Chichimecs occupied the territory of Durango. Archeologists theorize that, because of their traditions of human sacrifice, the ball game and constant warfare, the Acaxees were related to the Mexica, who went on to conquer the Valley of Mexico. In 1552, Gines Vazquez del Mercado and 100 adventurers marched into Durango looking for the fabled cities of gold. He found only a mountain of iron ore and an army of warlike Indians, who mortally wounded him. At the foot of that mountain, now called the Cerro de Mercado, the Spaniards founded the city of Durango in 1563. The areas of Durango and Chihuahua were administered as the province of Nueva Vizcaya until 1786. In the early 17th century, all three Indian tribes rebelled, killing many Jesuit missionaries, and were crushed with much bloodshed. The Indians revolted again during the period of national chaos after Mexico's independence, causing the Durango government to proclaim a bounty of 200 pesos for one live Indian and 250 pesos for one dead. Durango was the scene of battles between the constitutionalists and conservatives in 1858, the French and Juarez' forces in 1864 and 1866, and Pancho Villa's army and federal troops in 1914.

This large northwestern state is divided between farm country in the north and east, and the largely impassable Sierra Madre Occidental to the south. The city of Durango (pop 400,000), the capital, lies at the foot of the Cerro de los Remedios, a long ridge with a scenic chapel on top. The center of town is the Plaza de Armas, on the north side of which is the sprawling Cathedral. Begun in 1695, the building's recently renovated interior is punctuated by imposing stone arches. The Palacio del Gobierno (tourist office) was a 17th-century mansion constructed for a local militia leader. The Museo Regional occupies the ground floor of the Avocado Building near the main square. The surrounding blocks are the old residential neighborhood filled with elegant houses. One of these was the birthplace of Dolores Del Rio, the famous Mexican actress, on August 3, 1908. Scorpions encased in blocks of plastic are Durango's main gift item. The city's outskirts are filled with belching factories.

However, the countryside along Mexico 45 north of town is extremely scenic and was used as the setting for many Hollywood Westerns. The towns of Villa del Oeste and Chupadero, about ten kilometers (six miles) north, are actually old stage sets for some John Wayne movies, including Big Jake and Chisum. MexicoU 40 from Durango to Maz-atlan passes through some stunning mountain terrain, which almost rivals the Copper Canyon Railway for scenery.

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